Mtg. No. |
Topics |
Chpt. |
Pages |
[1] |
Organization, introduction, review linear wave theory
|
1 |
ALL |
[2] |
Review water wave mechanics, wave transformations
|
5 |
137-207 |
[3] |
Intro. To radiation stress theory (handout)
|
5 |
168 |
[4] |
Mohr's circle, radiation stress theory applications(handout)
|
handout |
|
[5] |
Wave breaking nearshore, wave energy flux gradient
|
6 |
208-217 |
[6] |
Surf zone energy dissipation models
|
6 |
217-232 |
[7] |
Wave set down and set up
|
6 |
232-238 |
[8] |
Undertow, wave runup edge waves
|
6 |
231-264 |
[9] |
Beach profiles, morphdogy
|
7 |
270-302 |
[10] |
Profile change due to storm
|
7 |
302-314 |
[11] |
Cross-shore sediment transport models
|
7 |
315-326 |
[12] |
Summary-Cross-shore hydrodynamics &. processes
|
|
|
[13] |
EXAMINATION NO.1 CROSS SHORE
|
|
|
[14] |
Longshore currents, rips, nearshore circulation
|
8 |
336-350 |
[15] |
Longshore currents due to obliquely breaking waves
|
8 |
350-366 |
[16] |
Longshore sediment transport structures
|
9 |
377-390 |
[17] |
Wave power and sediment transport rates
|
9 |
390-400 |
[18] |
Cross-shore distribution of longshore transport
|
9 |
401-417 |
[19] |
Planform models of shoreline shape
|
10 |
424-430 |
[20] |
Analytical and numerical, one-line models
|
10 |
430-453 |
[21] |
Geomorphology of eroding coasts
|
2 |
16-30 |
[22] |
Geomorphology of accreting coasts
|
2 |
37-44 |
[23] |
Beach morphology and sediment
|
3 |
45-60 |
[24] |
Beach morphology and sediment budgets
|
3 |
61-75 |
[25] |
EXAMINATION NO.2 LONGSHORE
|
|
|
[26] |
Thanksgiving Holiday - No class
|
|
|
[27] |
Nearshore morphodynamics
|
11 |
All |
[28] |
Water levels, tides, storm surge
|
4 |
76-100 |
[29] |
Sea level rise literature, greenhouse effects
|
4 |
101-136 |
[30] |
Protection of our coasts - critique
|
12 |
All |
[31] |
FINAL EXAM 3:45 - 6:45 pm
|
|
|